Monday, 26 November 2012


Giles Deacon's S/S 2013 collection must be written about. Giles has a prominent yet peculiar presence in British fashion, rising to fame before the vast majority of his LFW peers. His brand is enigmatic, not splashed across the pages of every magazine like a super glossy hooker or stamped onto an endless tirade of cash cow fragrances. He is known to flout fashion elitism and take risks. Tabloid favorites Abbey Clancy and Kelly Brooke have walked his runway and fashion favourites share the front row with reality celebrities. Giles also chose to collaborate with the High Street budget brand New Look rather than the regular choices of Topshop & H&M. Giles may shun fashion pretentions but he still collaborates with people like Stephen Jones (milliner extraordinaire) and Tabitha Simmons (creator of covetable shoes).

Giles collections always have a very clear and defined creative vision. Often a reoccurring motif weaves its way seamlessly throughout an entire collection. Shattered glass was represented and reinvented throughout the latest collection using a variety of different mediums including digital print, laser cut leather and beading. Giles said backstage that Jayne Mansfield had been an inspiration for the collection which explains the shattered glass motif as Mansfield famously died in a car crash. Mansfield's tragic character has inspired many artists including John Waters and J. G. Ballard whose novel Crash instantly came to mind when I first saw this collection. Cartoon influences often creep into Giles' creations, the third dress below being an example of this. This can often baffle an audience as kitsch prints give way to extravagant couture dresses. This just shows the extent of Giles' genius as there is not just one kind of woman that wears Giles. Femme fatales and feminine cuteness, summer walks and evening balls are all catered for.

Laser cut leather looks will be big for Summer 2013 and Giles' dresses offering hundreds of slithers of bare flesh are a sexy incarnation of this trend. 60s influences also look like they are set to take over next summer with many looks in this collection creating a futuristic vision of Twiggy.

Stephen Jones' cranial creations always compliment Giles collections perfectly. The shattered glass headpiece in the second image above offers a dark connection to Giles' Jayne Mansfield inspiration. The first dress above is an example of the intricacy of many of Giles' dresses, entering the realm of couture rather than ready to wear.I recommend looking at the collection in it's entirety. There are no fillers, no duds, just perfection.

1 comment:

Couture Me Pink said...

Thanks for the run down on Giles Deacon. I never paid a lot of attention to him until now!