Tuesday, 11 September 2012
There is something subtly dark about Patrik Ervell's designs. His Fall collection was the uniform of a police state. Navy ribbed sweaters with extended black shoulder patches hinted at riot police, grey military clothing expressed a lack of individuality and faded black and grey tie-dye bathed the models in dystopian smog. This season Ervell departed from Fall's futuristic vision and presented a collection for urban warriors. Again we see motifs of authority figures, a security guard's navy wool vest teamed with a white shirt, and deep military pockets on suit jackets. Unlike last seasons mainly monochrome palette, colour is invited into this collection. Sporadic flashes of orange interrupt the shades of navy, blue and black. The clothes are practical yet fashionable. I'm particularly drawn to the deflated quilted jackets, practical for spring and unusual because of their two dimensional form. Ervell decided to show both womenswear and menswear together this season which helps build the narrative behind his collections. I may of written yesterday that New York is my least favourite fashion capital but Ervell proves that New York has talent.